The road to Totaranui is hardly there any more- closed, washed away in the pre-Christmas storms. A narrow, twisting, gravel switch-back reaching out across the hills from Takaka like a serpent’s tongue. But it has been devastated, simply washed down, falling into bottomless gullies in places. Gone for good more than likely.

Totaranui is a camping ground, wide open and luscious beside a half moon bay of golden sand edged by a lagoon and a lazy river that disappears at low tide. Even with the road open you had to make an effort to get there but by golly it is worth it.                                                                                                    Seventeen of us boarded the Sea Shuttle at Kaiteriteri, loaded down with kit- bedding, victuals, surf skis, cycles and a kayak for a week in a very special place. No shops, no phones, no internet, only nature at its best, until the boat comes back for us in seven days time. The chain gang on the beach brought it all ashore, bound for the old homestead- a grand wooden bungalow with wide verandas that left us feeling  like old colonials. The camp ground was not a quarter full and all the beach gear was cheerfully left unhindered on the sand all week.                                                                            The days were full- swimming, paddling, walking (even running for those who embraced it.) And we celebrated- Yags’ birthday, Australia Day, ourselves and the winner of the Totaranui Four Buoy swim with a trophy made from pickings off the beach.            Simply glorious!